West Bow Peak — explor8ion

Two years ago, in August 2023, Andrew Nugara posted a scramble up a relatively unknown and diminutive outlier of Mount Jimmy Simpson, sitting between Bow and Peyto Lakes. Despite his glowing reviews of the views from this easy peak, not to mention its very easy access from one of the Icefield Parkway’s busiest parking lots above Peyto Lake, West Bow Peak sat in obscurity for a few years until the summer of 2025.

After an ascent and subsequent social media posting by a large group over the Canada Day holiday weekend which included Doug Lutz, Leigh-Ann Cundell and Ephraim Roberts this little trip exploded in popularity. With rain and clouds dominating the Rockies this summer and a glimmer of hope for some views on Sunday, July 27 I decided that it was time for me to see what all the fuss was about.

With storms in the forecast for the PM, I decided to leave YYC early and beat the hordes of tourons to the Peyto Lake parking lot near Bow Pass. I pulled into the lot at around 06:40 and was surprised to be only the 3rd vehicle. I also wasn’t that surprised since there was thick cloud cover all around me. Yes, you read that correctly! I just happened to choose a day with thick low-laying cloud cover over the entire Hwy 93 corridor for a summit purporting to excel the beauty of Peyto and Bow Lake. Oops. Oh well, I was here now and there was no turning back. As I hiked the paved trail to the Peyto Lake lookout I mused that maybe I’d get lucky and the clouds would either lift or I’d at least get above them for some unique views of the surrounding peaks.

I was all alone as I tramped past the lookout (no views in the thick fog) and started the 250m+ descent to Peyto Lake.

A moody start to the day as I descend to Peyto Lake.

The forest is lovely and the trail is obvious.

Honestly, the crux of West Bow Peak for most folks is the end-of-day gain of almost 300 meters vertical from the Peyto Creek flats back to the parking lot high above. I don’t care much about re-gaining height anymore – it’s part of a lot of trips I do. Only a few days later I would be re-gaining many hundreds of meters more, so this was a good warm-up for me.

The trail was in good shape but overnight rain (big surprise – not) made it slick and muddy in spots. I remembered way back in 2008 when Raf and I did Mount Mistaya and Caldron Peak in a day via this route. Back then not too many scramblers were focused on this area and it was considered a pretty big day. Nowadays it’s a much more normal outing with lighter gear and changing techniques and opinions on what is normal or not. At the end of that day I could barely get back up to the parking lot and I recall experiencing the pain cave as I tried keeping up with Raf via headlamp in total darkness. Good times!

Peyto Lake is covered in low laying clouds.

As I started out across the Peyto Creek flats from the SE end of Peyto Lake I recalled the many ski tours I’ve done here over the years including Mount Baker, Mistaya Mountain and of course, Peyto Peak.

Starting my trek across the Peyto Creek flats.

I could see a huge pile of rocks marking a nice trail through forest south of the lake, avoiding a narrows where Peyto Creek doesn’t give a lot of room for keeping the feet dry. After a short hike through a sopping wet forest (so typical for this year), I came out of the other side and started looking for my ascent drainage.

A surprisingly nice trail through forest to by-pass a choke in Peyto Creek.

The clouds were so thick at this point that I couldn’t see more than a few hundred vertical meters upslope, making route finding a little trickier even with a GPS track.

Starting up my access gully on the lower west slopes.

I found the rocky drainage and started up – cursing the wet willows before realizing they were thankfully very short-lived here. Soon the drainage became rather pleasant with easy, blocky steps leading upwards to a low line of cliffs I could barely make out through the swirling mists high above me.

Continuing up the obvious and quick access gully.

Views back down to Peyto Creek as I enter the clouds.

On reaching excellent staircase cliffs, I immediately started a direct ascent before veering climber’s right when the rock got slick.

Approaching some cliffs– avoidable on either side.

I could have continued straight up the cliffs but wasn’t in the mood for anything difficult today. Some days are like that.

After easily avoiding anything remotely challenging, I veered back to my left and continued up on firm scree slopes through thinning trees into even thicker clouds.

Traversing to easy slopes in the clouds.

Looks harder than it is, finding easy routes through bands of rock.

I reached an upper bench but again, couldn’t see anything of the route ahead so I trusted my GPS track and continued gaining height rapidly on scree and rubble. As I ascended further I sensed a slow brightening around me. Could it be? Could I actually be ascending through the clouds? Would I maybe get some views today after all – even if they wouldn’t be the lakes below?

The NE face of Jimmy Simpson as the clouds thin.

All of a sudden I burst through the clouds and fog and was in brilliant sunshine with great views of the intimidating east face of Mount Jimmy Simpson and the rest of my ascent slopes above. Even better? I turned around and was confronted by a rare phenomenon usually only experienced a few times in an alpinist’s life – Brocken Spectre. The original German word, “Brockengespenst” comes from a halo of light (Heiligenschein) that forms on the observer’s shadow as it’s cast on clouds with the sun behind them, appearing as a ghost or spectre. Brocken is a mountain in Germany where this phenomenon is a common occurrence due to oft-occurring fog and clouds. I was thrilled that even though I wasn’t going to get the classic views of Bow or Peyto Lake today, at least my views would be somewhat unique in their own right.

My “spectre” almost within touching distance as I break the clouds! Even more rare – this is a double spectre.

The clouds were swirling and lifting as I continued upwards, increasing my pace out of concern that they would lift and cover the summit before I could get there.

Wider views as I keep gaining height on the clouds. West Bow at left with Jimmy Simpson, Baker, Peyto, Mistaya, Caldron and Patterson to the right.

As I topped out on the upper ridge I was blown away by not only the ghost, still visible below me, but the incredible scene of thick clouds and rising peaks over hwy 93 below.

Views over Peyto Lake from the north summit over an ocean of clouds. Peaks include Mistaya (L), Caldron, Patterson, Weed, Observation and Watermelon (R).

A short traverse brought me to the lower north summit where normally folks are amazed by the sparkling aqua-blue waters of Peyto Lake, far below. Today was quite a different view for me.

Views from the north ridge traverse to the summit (R) over hwy 93. The north summit at left.

After snapping photos of the incredible scene, I turned south up the ridge towards the summit which was still a ways off. Choosing only easy terrain, it didn’t take long and I was groveling up loose scree to a small snow field just under the summit.

I avoided all difficulties on the ridge proper by traversing up rubble slopes on climber’s right.

A patch of permanent snow just below the summit.

Within 3 hours of the parking lot I was getting glimpses of Bow Lake through swirling clouds and enjoying a sunny, calm summit with incredible views of many familiar peaks.

Bow Lake environs through swirling clouds.

I stuck around at the top for a while, wondering what the clouds would do. They were very unpredictable, thickening one minute and then thinning the next.

Summit views west include (L to R), Vulture, Balfour, Olive, St. Nicholas, Gordon, Jimmy Simpson, Baker, Mistaya, Barbette, Caldron and Patterson.

Views north over the north peak and approach ridge are dramatic with clouds.

Swirling clouds with Bow Lake and Mount Jimmy Simpson stealing the show.

With afternoon storms in the forecast I decided that I would simply enjoy the views I’d had and start slowly descending back towards the north peak. (I knew from multiple sources that the terrain directly under the summit wasn’t quite as pleasant or easy as it looked, hence my return via my ascent route rather than trying for a circuit.)

Descending the north ridge with wild views.

Descent was quick and easy with neat scenes of hwy 93 opening up through clouds below me. The lush green valley looked magical in the pockets of sunlight below my feet. The traffic was slightly less magical, but you take what you can out of a scene. 🚘

Mount Noyes (L) and Weed (R) poke above the clouds.

Alas, the clouds weren’t parting enough for views of Peyto Lake just yet, so I started down west rubble slopes to the valley below. The descent was very quick thanks to good scree.

Peyto Lake shows up from just under the cloud cover – my access gully to the left running down to c-r below.

I followed my lower drainage back to the Peyto Creek trail and took way too many photos of the very scenic Caldron Falls and Peyto Peak rising about the river flats.

Views back up west ascent slopes at left.

It was a little annoying to see the sky clearing out as I started the hike back to Peyto Lake but what can you do? Of course the clouds continued to dissipate as I hiked towards Peyto Lake – this is a classic for me when I get up super early to try to beat the weather.

Clearing skies as I descend back to Peyto Creek. Caldron Peak rising at center with the lake at right and namesake peak just visible at upper left.

If only I would have slept in another hour I would have had views of the lakes from the summit. But I wouldn’t have met my ghost high up on the mountain either – and that is always a very special moment. I’ve seen the lake before and I’ll see it again. I was just happy to be enjoying a beautiful day in the Rockies at this point.

Peyto Peak rises above Caldron Falls with Mount Habel at left over the shrinking Peyto Glacier.

Peyto Flats with Caldron at left and West Bow Peak at right.

Hiking back up to the parking lot was pretty easy on the good switch backing trail. As I wound my way through throngs of tourists I meditated on how different things were only a few kilometers away. Despite the clouds and the different views from West Bow Peak than I originally wanted, I came away feeling like I stole a day.

It was raining and cloudy along much of my drive home, reinforcing my feeling that rather than being disappointed, I should relish the unique experience I had. I highly recommend this short, easy outing for its incredible views and fun route despite the height gain on return. Save it for a day when larger objectives don’t make sense and enjoy whatever experience it gives you. It’ll be better than the couch – I almost guarantee you that. 🛋️