Mosquito Mountain

June 18, 2011, murchison group, banff national park

Summit
2977 m
Gain
1142 m
Distance
18 km
Round trip
7 hr
Technical
SC5 YDS (Hiking)
Activity
scramble
Quick 'n dirty
Class 2/3 - You fall you badly sprain something
Difficulty
Moderate scrambling on the upper mountain.
Route
GPS trackMap

On Saturday, June 18 2011 Wietse, Kevin (Papke) and I stole a day on Mosquito Mountain along the Icefields Parkway in Banff National Park. The weather forecast was dreary but we all really wanted to get out and stand on a summit. I’d been planning a fall trip up Mosquito for a few years already, but since So posted a TR from early June on this summit I thought “why not do it now” and so we made plans.

Hiking up the Mosquito Creek trail.
Hiking up the Mosquito Creek trail.
Hiking up the Mosquito Creek trail.
Hiking up the Mosquito Creek trail.

The day started out great with some sun and cloud and a nice hike to the Mosquito Creek back country campground. I was surprised at the luxury of this camp, complete with biffy, fire pit and great shelter and access to a clear, rushing creek. Considering it’s only 5km from the road and relatively flat I am going to take my family in here some weekend. There are grizzlies in the area, as evidenced by some pretty large prints but our yelling kept them from sight.

On the lower SW ridge of Mosquito with the summit at left. Molarstone, North Molar Pass, The Fang, South Molar Pass and Noseeum at right.
On the lower SW ridge of Mosquito with the summit at left. Molarstone, North Molar Pass, The Fang, South Molar Pass and Noseeum at right.
From L to R, Watermelon, Quartzite, Ramp and Mosquito.
From L to R, Watermelon, Quartzite, Ramp and Mosquito.

We didn’t bother continuing on the trail from the campground, but rather followed So’s descent option and bushwhacked on the north side of the creek right from camp. You really can’t go wrong here, just work your way up and to climber’s left and you will hit the ridge. From here you follow the ridge to the summit.

On the ridge, above treeline looking up at the summit. Still over 700 meters of height gain from this point.
On the ridge, above treeline looking up at the summit. Still over 700 meters of height gain from this point.
Kev descends the moderate crux on ascent.
Kev descends the moderate crux on ascent.
Looking back down the ridge with Wietse now on the crux. South Molar Pass and Molar Mountain visible at distance left.
Looking back down the ridge with Wietse now on the crux. South Molar Pass and Molar Mountain visible at distance left.

The snow on the upper mountain really slowed us down, and the moderate crux felt ‘difficult’ because of the conditions (loose, crappy wet rock) but the views were awesome even with the low cloud cover. Near the summit we endured a short blizzard but then the views opened up a bit again.

Looking south over the Pipestone River Valley. Hidden in clouds at left are Deluc and Cataract. Molarstone, the North and South Molar Passes and The Fang at center with Noseeum, Bow Peak and OXO to the right.
Looking south over the Pipestone River Valley. Hidden in clouds at left are Deluc and Cataract. Molarstone, the North and South Molar Passes and The Fang at center with Noseeum, Bow Peak and OXO to the right.
Summit views over Ramp and Quartzite Peaks towards Watermelon with Puzzle Peak left of center.
Summit views over Ramp and Quartzite Peaks towards Watermelon with Puzzle Peak left of center.

We never did see Willingdon, but the views into the Pipestone Pass area and over the Siffleur River Valley were tantalizing. I really want to explore that valley and scramble a bunch of peaks around there soon. I’ve had a trip planned into the area for the past 5 years and it just hasn’t worked out yet. Maybe this year…

Kev descends.
Kev descends.
Kev re-ascending the crux. It's much easier going up!
Kev re-ascending the crux. It's much easier going up!
Spring is here at valley bottom.
Spring is here at valley bottom.