Epic Tower (Townsend Traverse)

August 30, 2018, fairholme range, kananaskis country

Summit
2820 m
Gain
1900 m
Distance
30 km
Round trip
11.5 hr
Technical
SC6 YDS (3rd)
Activity
scramble
Quick 'n dirty
Class 3 - you fall, you break your leg
Difficulty
A very long creek approach with minor bushwhacking, some routefinding and some sheep trails. The traverse is moderate to difficult depending on whether Mythic Tower is included.
Route
GPS trackMap

After approaching and scrambling Mount Townsend, I descended its slabby summit block and down the only obvious break through its intimidating cliffs before heading along a sheep track towards Epic Tower. Initially I worried that I might have to gain and lose some elevation on this traverse, but it went much quicker and easier than I expected. Within only about 45 minutes of leaving the summit of Townsend, I was scoping out a route up Epic Tower’s SW scree and slabs to the summit.

A moonscape to walk across from just below Townsend's summit block towards Epic Tower at upper left.
A moonscape to walk across from just below Townsend's summit block towards Epic Tower at upper left.
The crumbling Epic Tower appears to have a fairly straightforward route.
The crumbling Epic Tower appears to have a fairly straightforward route.
As I approach the summit block of Epic Tower I can scope out a route from mid right to upper left.
As I approach the summit block of Epic Tower I can scope out a route from mid right to upper left.

The route I picked was moderate scrambling at most and within an hour of Townsend’s summit I was on the summit of Epic with more great views along the very impressive east face of the ridge running to Mystic Tower and Mount Fable, and of course back towards Townsend.

Great views down Exshaw Creek at lower left with Mythic Tower featuring prominently in the foreground.
Great views down Exshaw Creek at lower left with Mythic Tower featuring prominently in the foreground.

Great views down Exshaw Creek at lower left with Mythic Tower featuring prominently in the foreground.

Looking north at Mount Townsend where I traversed from with Stenton beyond at left. At right is the lovely upper Exshaw Creek Meadows and South Ghost Peak.
Looking north at Mount Townsend where I traversed from with Stenton beyond at left. At right is the lovely upper Exshaw Creek Meadows and South Ghost Peak.

Looking north at Mount Townsend where I traversed from with Stenton beyond at left. At right is the lovely upper Exshaw Creek Meadows and South Ghost Peak.

Really good views north over Exshaw Meadows and pass and past the impressive east face of Mount Townsend (L) towards Saddle Peak and Orient Point.
Really good views north over Exshaw Meadows and pass and past the impressive east face of Mount Townsend (L) towards Saddle Peak and Orient Point.

Really good views north over Exshaw Meadows and pass and past the impressive east face of Mount Townsend (L) towards Saddle Peak, Orient Point and South Ghost Peak (R).

Looking down Exshaw Creek past the impressive east face of Mythic Tower - my next destination.
Looking down Exshaw Creek past the impressive east face of Mythic Tower - my next destination.

Looking down Exshaw Creek past the impressive east face of Mythic Tower - my next destination. Goat Mountain at left over Exshaw Ridge and Mount Fable at right.

Descending Epic Tower with the summit at upper left and Exshaw Creek far below to the east.
Descending Epic Tower with the summit at upper left and Exshaw Creek far below to the east.
Looking back up at the summit (R) with Mount Townsend at center distance.
Looking back up at the summit (R) with Mount Townsend at center distance.

In my humble opinion, this peak is a no-brainer for anyone heading up Townsend. If you’re putting that much effort into the approach you should be rewarded with at least two peaks - no? After another short break it was time to check out the most difficult summit of my day - the ominous sounding, “Mythic Tower”.