Edward Peak (Lyell II)

June 26, 2015, lyell group, banff national park

Summit
3514 m
Gain
1350 m
Distance
14 km
Round trip
9 hr
Technical
MN7 YDS (II)
Activity
alpine climb
Quick 'n dirty
Class 3 - you fall, you break something
Difficulty
Remote mountain bush roads, indistinct and exposed trail and glacier travel in very remote terrain.
Route
GPS trackMap

Next to Ernest Peak, Edward (Lyell II) was pretty darn tame. Other than the fact that the height gains and distances were starting to add up and the day was getting long, there were absolutely no difficulties getting to the summit of the purported, but debatable of the highest of the Lyells.

Ernest Edward & Rudolph Route Map from the Lyell Hut
Ernest Edward & Rudolph Route Map from the Lyell Hut

Ernest Edward & Rudolph Route Map from the Lyell Hut

The views were not much less spectacular than from Ernest Peak but we didn’t linger too long at the top. We still had Rudolph (Lyell I) to do, not to forget the long trudge back to the Lyell Hut and the shadows were definitely lengthening.

Interesting Facts on Edward Peak

Named by Sydney R. Vallance in 1972. Feuz, Edward sr. (Edward Feuz was an early guide in the Rockies and Selkirks.(see biog.) Official name. Other names One of five peaks on Mount Lyell. First ascended in 1902 by James Outram, guided by Christian Kaufmann.

Ernest Peak looks incredible from Edward – note our tracks up the east ridge.
Ernest Peak looks incredible from Edward – note our tracks up the east ridge.
Our tracks up Ernest at right with Walter and Christian off to the left.
Our tracks up Ernest at right with Walter and Christian off to the left.
Mount King Edward (L), Columbia, South Twin, North Twin, Alberta, Castleguard, Snow Dome, Andromeda, Terrace, Athabasca, Brazeau, Saskatchewan and Cirrus (R)
Mount King Edward (L), Columbia, South Twin, North Twin, Alberta, Castleguard, Snow Dome, Andromeda, Terrace, Athabasca, Brazeau, Saskatchewan and Cirrus (R)
Looking east over Rudolph Peak – our next destination – with peaks from Saskatchewan to Amery to Forbes in the distance.
Looking east over Rudolph Peak – our next destination – with peaks from Saskatchewan to Amery to Forbes in the distance.
Mount Saskatchewan is a near-11,000er at foreground center with Mount Brazeau, Mount Poboktan, Cirrus and Stewart showing up at distance.
Mount Saskatchewan is a near-11,000er at foreground center with Mount Brazeau, Mount Poboktan, Cirrus and Stewart showing up at distance.

I am of the opinion that Ernest Peak is either higher or the same height as Edward. Both of these peaks have amazing views - you really don’t want to summit in a whiteout if you have a choice. I would highly recommend doing both peaks since they’re so close together anyway. Do Ernest, as the tougher one, first and then enjoy a leisurely stroll over the next two. Bagging these three 11,000ers together is a no-brainer after the immense work and planning that goes into getting yourself all the way the heck out here. We continued on to Rudolph Peak.